River Deep Mountain High

Alaska 2016 was our hardest trek to date. From being dropped by a chartered light aircraft on flat-ish patch of grass, my wife & I had thirteen days to navigate valleys, passes, glaciers and large areas of virtually-impenetrable bush to be picked-up from another remote strip of grass. Grizzly bears weren’t our biggest risk – the mother and cubs we saw from a distance were more scared of us than we were of them. The biggest threat were the river crossings. Freezing melt-water from scores of glaciers thundered through deep channels with moving rocks at the bottom. A slip with a 25kg rucksack would probably not end well with nothing but waterfalls to punctuate the few-hundred-miles ride to the ocean.

Towards the end of one particularly challenging day we approached a river and before seeing it we could hear the rumble of water and moving rocks.  Reaching the riverbank we depth-tested a few places by trying to plant a walking pole through the racing water. Unable to keep it vertical to reach the bottom we knew it was both too deep and too powerful.  

We were dismayed. The river joined others downstream so it would only be more difficult that way. The rock face miles up the valley displayed a fan of spectacular thundering waterfalls so no chance of circumventing it by going upstream. Then we remembered some advice – the rivers are at their worst late in the day when the sun has been melting the glaciers miles upstream. The cold night slows the process and stems the flow. We camped early, ate and fell asleep to the therapeutic sound of the rumbling river.

We awoke to a much quieter environment. Excited, I dashed down to the water and islands had appeared, the bottom was in reach and so looked the other side. It still took some courage and we used a rope to support each other – the wilderness is no place for complacency. We made it across, warmed our frozen feet and enjoyed our breakfast feeling triumphant.

I love adventures (especially those that put us at the edge of our abilities) because we can find profound life-lessons. For those of us who are impetuous and pushy, stopping and waiting doesn’t come easily but on this occasion it was essential. We also benefit from those around us (in this case my wife) who recalled what she had read about the water levels reducing overnight. And even in the morning it was a little daunting so we gave each other encouragement and safety with the rope.

  • To whom are you listening?
  • Who is joined to you through your challenges?
  • Do you have the courage to move forwards?

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